Our Vietnam kitchen cabinet factory is up and running, and already export containers to US. Lead time 60 days. Our mission is to supply high quality cabinetry with reasonable price. Welcome to contact us for quote or more information.
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Due to trade war between US and China, and the AD/CVD investigation towards imported kitchen cabinets and vanities from China, we received many enquiry about the possibility buying from a outside China source. While it is closing to the preliminary decision of DOC for AD/CVD rate, it become extremely urgent for kitchen cabinet and vanity distributors in United States to find the legitimate, secure substitute of cabinetry supply outside China.
When looking for a solution, be careful as what you are encountered maybe trap instead of opportunity.
Find out if they are actually produced outside China. When a company claim they are a Vietnam kitchen cabinet factory, find out if they do own any production facility in Vietnam. As many company still produce their kitchen cabinets in China, and then ship the containers to Vietnam. This operation may become target of US custom who is closely monitoring South East countries like Vietnam. Therefore, buying cabinets this way could be risky. Tips: Go and visit the factory in Vietnam personally before you place an order.
Status of the Cabinet Factory. It is true that there are some Chinese cabinet manufacturers that already make efforts to build new factory in Vietnam or Malaysia or other country now. With different source and ability, their progress could be faster or slower, and in most cases, much slower than expected. Tips: Estimate the time your inventory could last and prepare a plan B. As a cabinet manufacturer in Vietnam tell you they are putting into production soon, it could be months, or even longer before they can actually begin producing any kitchen cabinets, let alone if their production capacity could meet your needs.
Price issue. Due to lower working efficiency and expensive material and other factors, It is inevitable that price of a Vietnam factory or Malaysia factory will be higher than China. The key is to find a reasonable price if your Vietnam supplier can guarantee the quality and lead time.
When China stop to supply cabinets, other countries can never fill the supply ability gap that China leave. Some Chinese cabinet factory would move or build their production capacity in South East Asia, but we figure these factory will account for no more than 30-40% of all Chinese cabinet companies. There will be huge supply gap. The result is US cabinet company will need to fight for limited production capacity and some will close their business if they fail to secure their supply. You have not seen this happen, why? It is not easy for kitchen cabinet company to change their supplier and most of them are still watching before August when preliminary decision of AD & CVD come out. But it would be too late for you to make decision and act at that time. The whole industry of cabinetry are facing major and permanent change. Every one is forced to make some major decision and change in order to survive.
Take action quickly, but carefully.
Simple rules of kitchen cabinet layout
1. Finished ends should be applied to the end of the kitchen cabinet run when visible. Finished ends are used to cover screw holes and screw heads on the exposed sides of the cabinets.
2. Use fillers between the kitchen cabinet run and the wall. A minimum 2" wide filler will take care of walls being out of square and ensure that doors and drawers can open without rubbing on the wall.
3. Toe skins and crown molding finish out the kitchen cabinet project. Toe skins cover the face of toe kick area on a cabinet run and make it look like a single cabinet unit was built. Crown molding and other optional mill-work pieces can be used to add detail to the project.
4. Use PRO. Cabinet Sourcing has more than 10 years experience in kitchen cabinet manufacturing and is able to produce any size and cabinet unit that cater to any layout and help accomplish a great kitchen cabinet project.
Recognize the differences between cabinet construction types, materials and quality will help you understand the wide price variance in the kitchen cabinet market.
There are two main types of cabinet construction offered to US consumers: framed and frameless (Euro style). Each has structural and stylistic advantages and disadvantages. When comparing framed vs frameless construction, the most important considerations are box construction, materials used, quality of the finish and drawer box construction and assembly. These are the areas where cabinets first show wear and tear, including damage during installation.
Framed Cabinet Construction is really a box with six sides: front, back, left side, right side, top and bottom. The cabinet front includes a wood face frame and doors and drawer fronts. The face frame is attached to the cabinet box. Hinged to the face frame, cabinet doors are either inset flush with the frame or overlay the frame. US consumers traditionally prefer framed cabinetry.
There are three variations of framed cabinetry: partial overlay, full overlay and inset. Inset styles reveal the entire face frame. Full overlay styles cover nearly the entire frame, while partial overlay styles reveal the frame with large gaps between doors and drawer fronts. Cabinet Sourcing supply all framed construction in either full-overlay or inset to US cabinetry distributors.
Frameless (Euro) cabinet, also known as a European-style cabinet, has no face frame. Therefore, the cabinet is a five-sided box. The door, hinged directly to the cabinet box, forms the entire cabinet front. Frameless construction requires thicker side panels to provide stability and a base for hinges. This adds weight to the cabinet. Cabinet Sourcing has rich experience in helping customers who need frameless European style cabinets. Many frameless cabinet boxes are built of particleboard as an more cost friendly option for builder or large apartment projects.
Ready-to-Assemble (RTA) Cabinets can be framed or frameless. The unassembled cabinet typically broken down into multiple parts (cabinet, face frame, drawers, inserts, doors and hardware). RTA kitchen cabinets are designed to be assembled on site by DIY home owner or in warehouse of a cabinet distributor. Cabinet parts are joined with a cam lock or screw and metal bracket or just with glue and staple. RTA assembly requires skill to ensure the cabinets are safely assembled and square. Once RTA cabinetry has been assembled, cabinets should be moved as little as possible before installing to prevent structural damage.
Kitchen Cabinet refacing is not a cabinet construction method, but a process. Refacing involves removing doors, drawer fronts and hardware. The existing cabinet boxes are then, still installed, covered with veneer panels, paint, or stain. New doors and drawer fronts are then installed on the cabinets. The kitchen layout (footprint) and cabinet interiors, including drawer boxes will remain the same.
RTA kitchen cabinets are currently dominating the market with the great value. Still, as with any product, there are a number of factors you should consider before making a purchase.
The name RTA gives people the impression that all they have to do is remove the parts from the box and place them on spots. Unfortunately, this isn’t the case. Of course, you don’t need the multitude of tools a custom kitchen cabinet would require, but you still need the basic instruments to assemble the RTA kitchen cabinet.
The first things you will need are a screw driver and drill, two basic tools required in any home improvement job. Additionally, you’ll want to have a leveler handy to ensure that your kitchen cabinets aren’t slanted towards one side. The last two tools you’ll need are less common in many households. Firstly, you need a table saw to cut your fillers and moldings. A table saw will guarantee smooth, accurate cuts and save you quite a bit of time. Secondly, you need a nail gun to install all your wooden parts. Having a powerful nail gun will allow you to install your panels, fillers, and moldings correctly and in good time.
If you have knowledge and practice in renovations, you’ll become quite comfortable with kitchen cabinet installation in no time. The initial assembly will be quite easy, and after you get through your first few kitchen cabinets, the rest will be a breeze. However, it would be prudent to warn those who have no experience in DIY that the cabinet installation isn’t as straightforward as you might’ve initially thought. It can be quite challenging if you aren’t familiar with the tools and techniques. If this is the case, it’s recommended that you hire a professional to finish the job. Considering how much you’ve saved from purchasing the RTA kitchen cabinet, a quick installation from an expert won’t be too imposing on your wallet.
When purchasing RTA kitchen cabinet, you should make sure that what you’ve paid for is what you’ll get. Imagine receiving your order, only to be forced to send the entire thing back because you simply aren’t satisfied. This disappointment might occur because of your specific monitor settings or quality, or even due to the fact that the retailer has edited its images. Regardless of why the actual cabinet might look different in person, you should be heedful of the possibilities. In order to ensure that you’ll be pleased with your choice, order a sample kitchen cabinet door first. When you can’t be sure of how the cabinets will look like through an online gallery, a sample will give you a clear idea of what the RTA kitchen cabinets will look like in your kitchen. Another huge advantage of ordering sample doors is that you can ask for multiple different ones, giving you the opportunity to compare each option before you decide on the best fit.
While RTA kitchen cabinets are high-quality products, you can’t expect the same level of aesthetics as you might get from custom cabinets. You might wonder why cheaper Ikea products have better finishes than your kitchen cabinets, but you have to take into account that they’re mainly constructed with particle boards and veneers. This means that Ikea can create a clean finish on the outside, but it’s done in order to conceal the cheaper interior build. Cabinet Sourcing, as the leading cabinet manufacturer in China, instead, insist on using best material to produce all solid wood RTA kitchen cabinets with superior interior build.
Most of the RTA kitchen cabinets are made of solid wood, and natural materials like this always contain some flaws. Little scratches or warping in between or behind the cabinets are completely normal, but won’t adversely affect the functionality or overall aesthetics of the product.
You can always exchange certain parts and request replacements from your retailer, but keep in mind that you won’t receive any reimbursements for them, and doing so will only extend the installation process. Online RTA kitchen cabinets and bahtroom vanities are meant to give you an affordable alternative, and therefore, you can’t expect the same level of service or elegance as you might find in custom cabinet stores.
Wall cabinets are 12" deep, but unlike base cabinets, they vary in height. The most common height is 30", but 24", 18", 15" and 12" heights are available (Cabinet Sourcing have a 21" height and 18", 24" and more heights according to customer needs).
They range from 9" wide to 48" wide in 3" increments. The 30" height cabinet usually has all 3" increments available. If any are missing from the “lineup” it’s likely to be the 45" and/or 39". The other heights have fewer width choices.
Wall cabinets through 24" wide are single door. Though some 24" cabinets are available in double door. Some manufacturers have reversible doors while with others you have to specify “hinged right”, or “left”. Though certain styles of any door may not be reversible, such as a cathedral style (reversing the doors often means just turning the wall cabinet upside down).
Wall cabinets usually have four numbers plus one or more letters in their name. The numbers list the width first, then the height, in inches. Some common letter names include: “W” for wall, “DW” for diagonal wall, “WC” for wall corner and more. Some manufacturers add a letter or change them around as there is no standard. For example, “WDC” might mean wall diagonal corner. Some put the letter first and the number second, others reverse the order. Become familiar with your suppliers “code”.
24" deep wall cabinets are for a “top” over utility and/or oven cabinets of the same width. Some "tall" cabinets are 66" (5'-6") tall, with this 18" height cabinet on top they equal 84" total height.
PENINSULA OR DOUBLE FACED WALL CABINETS
Wall cabinets that go over a peninsula or island usually have doors that open from both sides. The dining room side may have decorative glass in the doors. These cabinets are often shorter so a better view into the other room is possible. The 24" height is common, with 30" also available.In some peninsula layouts doors opening from both sides may not be wanted. Regular wall cabinets can be used with prefinished 1/4" plywood used as a back. This is available stained to match, usually with or without V-grooves.
CORNERS WITH WALL CABINETS
Turning corners in wall cabinets is not as difficult as with base units. The drawer clashing problem is not present. Still, if you get two doors in a corner with their hinges back to back, it’s possible they will clash and the doors will only open part way. It depends on door thickness, etc. But be aware of it.
Many of the same type cabinets help turn wall corners as did the base units. Since peninsula cabinets were just discussed, that is what starts off this section.
Many other accessories and some other cabinets may be available from different manufacturers. A common one is the microwave cabinet.
More accessories include: wall fillers, end panels, plate rails, various mouldings, what-not shelves, valances, wine racks, spice racks and more.
Some manufacturers of “made-to-order” cabinets allow you to order an “extended style” (meaning vertical millwork piece) for an extra charge. This allows flexibility to cut to size on the job for that final fit.
This is especially good with remodelling when walls are not plumb and/or the finish wall is not in place when you have to measure and order cabinets.
The extra amount can be scribed or trimmed for exact fit.
Sliding dovetails provide several advantages over a dado joint. First, they're stronger because they don't rely solely on glue. Second, the shoulders of the dovetailed piece hide the edges of the slot, much as a tenoned workpiece hides a mortise. And the exposed dovetail provides a visible signature of your craftsmanship. Cabinet Sourcing is proud to make high quality sliding dovetail face framed kitchen cabinets. Also we can make similar construction where top and bottom connect to sides. This construction save our customers assembly time and make it easier.
To make this joint, you'll rout the dovetail slot first, then cut and size the dovetail to fit. For the slot you'll need a handheld router and the dado jig shown below. In addition to a 5⁄8 " guide bushing, you'll need a 1⁄4 " spiral downcut bit for clean cuts (a 1⁄4 " straight bit will also work) and a 1⁄2 " dovetail bit. We chose a 7° dovetail bit because it leaves a thicker, stronger "neck" on the dovetail than a 14° bit would. You will shape the dovetail on a router table. For testing the router-table setup, prepare a panel the same thickness and about the same width as the project panels to be dovetailed.
Lay out; then rout
You will cut the dovetail slot in two operations. First, to reduce the load on the dovetail bit, remove most of the waste with the spiral downcut bit. Then switch to the dovetail bit to complete shaping the slot. Because the dovetail slot tapers from bottom to top, the inside edges of the jig do not align with the top edges of the slot, photo below. To reposition the jig accurately for each operation, use the jig to draw layout lines on your workpieces to define both sides of the slots. Install the bushing and spiral downcut bit, and set the bit's cutting depth to 1⁄16 " less than the final depth of the slot. Clamp the jig along the layout lines and rout across the panel. Rout each slot with this setup.
Sometimes called utility cabinets, tall kitchen cabinets are usually 84" (7') tall, but some are 90" or 96". 7', 7.5 or 8' are considered the normal height that the top of wall cabinets are installed. There are three main tall cabinets: oven, pantry and utility or broom.
OVEN CABINET. These cabinets are used to house an oven separate from a range. Often used when a cooktop is used in place of a range, or for a second oven. An oven cabinet could hold two ovens, or an oven and microwave. At Cabinet Sourcing, we make oven cabinet to customer specs. We can customize the opening for customer to fit oven or microwave of any size. Check manufacturers information for how much you can cut out of the openings.
PANTRY CABINET. Sometimes a regular utility cabinet is used and a kit is installed that contains shelves, brackets, etc. Kits are available for door storage. Manufacturing network of Cabinet Sourcing can provide special pantry unit with storage in doors, shelves and other features.
FINISHED ENDS. The fixed size cabinets usually have all the cabinet ends stained to match. Some of these ends will be exposed while others will be hidden, but since they are all pre-stained it’s not a concern.
The cabinets that are kitchen cabinet factory made, but not until an order is placed, usually stain only the ends requested. This means the kitchen estimator has to inspect the design and “list” either “REF” (right end finished), or “LEF” (left) or “BEF” (both) and add the required cost.
Cabinets from Cabinet Sourcing normally have both ends finished. Some kitchen cabinet manufacturers have a fir end you can get prefinished at a lower cost than the main cabinet wood. This could be a good choice next to a refrigerator, for example, where you may see the end, but not plainly.
There are many other base cabinets and accessories available. Appliance garages, custom shelves, prefinished matching V-groove, or no V-groove panelling sheets so the back of regular kitchen cabinets used in a peninsula can be finished, cutting boards, bread boards, wire basket liners, bread box liners, cutlery trays, half-round open shelves for end of base cabinets, microwave trim kits and more.
Two corner cabinets that cut down on problems in turning corners are the “lazy susan” base and the “blind corner” base.
LAZY SUSAN BASE 36" wide
Always takes up 36" of wall space. Makes good use of corner space but does not allow any adjusting for odd dimensions in a run of base cabinets.
BLIND CORNER BASE 36" to 51"wide
Manufacturers make enough sizes to cover every distance from 36" of wall space to 51". They do this by making the style (panel) between the door and the opening wide enough so the cabinet can be slid forward (called “pulled”) up to 3" and for some models up to 7". Notice on the illustration that the cabinet box is usually made short so it doesn't go back to the wall. Often it is up to 12" away from the back wall. This cuts down on storage space a little. This cabinet gives a lot of flexibility when a run of cabinets has to fit exactly between two fixed points. When designing be sure to put it into the correct run of cabinets, if you have a choice (the run that has the fixed points).
A concern of anybody who plans kitchen cabinet layouts is to get the corners correct. The problem is shown in the adjacent figure. Drawers may be restricted from opening by the next drawer at right angles, or if it clears the drawer, it may clash with the drawer pull or knob.
Many cabinets have no knobs or pulls, so the drawer may clear fine for now. But people may want to “redo” the kitchen later including installing pulls on the drawers. Make sure, then, that you avoid the “corner problem”.
There are several ways to successfully turn the corner. The lazy susan is a popular choice. Cabinet manufacturers make a “base corner” sometimes called a blind corner base, or similar (BC, or BCB).
This includes a 1" filler that “pushes” one cabinet away so drawer hardware will clear. The corner base has a large “style” (panel) that enables the installer to “slide” the cabinet forward or back so that its hardware also clears. It also allows the designer to adjust a “run” of cabinets for uneven dimensions.
You can put a filler piece on one side of two regular base cabinets, to turn the corner, leaving the corner unusable. Of course this is not usually a good idea, but if you are bidding against a competitor who did this, your bid would naturally be higher, all other things being equal.
The corner can also be turned by using a square sink corner, or a diagonal sink corner.
BASE CABINET 12" to 24 wide
These sizes have a single door and drawer, though some 12" cabinets do not have a drawer. Some manufacturers have a fixed door so you have to specify whether the door is “hinged right” or “hinged left”. But many can be made to open either way (reversible).
BASE CABINET 27" to 48" wide
These sizes are double drawer and door, though some 27" cabinets may have a single drawer and the double door may not have a “style piece” between the doors. Sometimes the 45" and/or 39" and/or 27" is not available.
BASE DRAWER CABINET 12" to 24" wide
Most drawer stacks have 4 drawers though some have 3. Bread boards are optional on most base cabinets but it is common to put one in a base drawer unit. The 15", 18" 21" and 24" are most popular though the 21" is not always available, nor is the 12".
SINK BASE CABINET 24" wide
This is a single door cabinet for a single sink. Often used as a cooktop cabinet and for a range base with some cutting. Some manufacturers have reversible doors, others have to be specified right or left hinging. No drawers and usually no shelf. Differs from a sink front, which is described later
SINK FRONT 24" to 30"
This is just the front, no sides back or bottom. It is cheaper than a base unit, but by the time other pieces are bought and attached it may be just as expensive (normally a sink base is preferred). You may find it noted SF27-24. Since it’s just a front, the edges can be cut down to alter the size. In this case it comes 27" but can be cut down to a 24" if needed. Many times a 30" is a double door, but not always.
SINK FRONT 30" to 48" wide
Same notes as the 24" except a double door with false drawer fronts. 36" is most common and not all sizes are available. Some are made so 6" total can be cut off (3" per side).
SQUARE SINK FRONT 40" wide
Another way to have a corner sink. Needs “L” shaped sink.
SINK BASE CABINET 27" to 48" wide
A cabinet with no drawers (but with false drawer fronts) to receive a sink which would be set through a hole cut in the counter top. It usually has no shelves. The 36" size is the most popular by far, then 30" and 33". Not all increments are always available.
DIAGONAL SINK FRONT 36" to 42" wide
Similar to 24" sink front but with “wings” on each side, at 45° to cut diagonally across a corner. Can use a standard sink. A diagonal sink sounds “cute” but any sink in a corner makes that area quite congested. Think twice about using a corner sink.
At Paul Cabinet Sourcing, we are proud of custom making base cabinet of any type and size upon customer's needs.
Quality kitchen cabinet and services. Reliable cabinet factory direct.